Ansgar Clusserath Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling Qba Trocken, Mosel, Germany

安斯加爾克魯斯拉斯特里登海梅爾雷司令干白葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：2749

A very graceful, subtly complex and harmonious Riesling, with finesse to the texture. Shows hints of red apple, jasmine, allspice and mineral, all mingling and persisting through to the long aftertaste. Drink now through 2026. 225 cases made, 20 cases imported.??–AZ??Region: Germany / Mosel Select to Add

Eva Clusserath’s 2011 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling trocken delivers a rich yet refreshing amalgam of apple, white peach, lime, grapefruit and nut oils infused with cyanic piquancy of pits and pips and an impression of crushed stone that shares impressive finishing duties with mouthwatering salinity. Like a number of this year’s Ansgar-Clusserath Rieslings, it beautifully balances textural allure with energetic vivacity, and displays youthful aromatic yeastiness in a more winsome, freshly baked bread-like manner than one sometimes encounters at this address. (Clusserath says one lot that informed this bottling didn’t even finish fermenting until just before its July bottling.) This beauty ought to drink impressively for at least another half dozen years, and quite possibly a lot longer. Eva Clusserath has seldom if ever shown me a more consistently fine collection than from this vintage and it’s too bad that until now only a small representation of her wines – this year bottled in mid-summer – has shown up Stateside. Rather than do a green harvest, Clusserath elected to instead organize a massive “pre-harvest” the third week in September that thinned her vineyards of bunches that had been affected by August hail, but whose results otherwise proved serviceable. Most of her best material, though, was picked close to a month later.Importer: Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

High-toned lemon and grapefruit rind, mint, and cress scent Eva Clusserath’s 2010 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling trocken, which comes to the palate firm and bright, it’s fresh lemon, lime and grapefruit buffered from being too sharp and its bite of cress as well as piquancy of nuts, toasted seeds, and fruit pips also well-contained and merely adding to the invigoration of a sappy, refreshing finish. Even at 12% alcohol, this displays a lot of lift. I would monitor its evolution but not be surprised if it gave half a dozen or more years of admirable service. (Interestingly, tasting the richer and less buoyant 2009 alongside, that wine displays if anything more characteristics for which I resort to mineral vocabulary. And the strongly herbal and floral 2008 is today the most expressive, transparent, and complex of the three.) Eva Clusserath was among the many to experience a commercially depressing 2010 vintage. “We went as many as three or four times into the same vineyard to optimize ripeness,” she reports, and in the face of all that expensive labor, volumes were down by close to half. Clusserath double-salt de-acidified the must for her basic dry wine, but otherwise says she waited as long as she could to harvest (beginning only near the end of October) and arrived at total acidity in her other musts of around ten grams, extremely moderate by vintage standards (not to mention lower than Clusserath’s husband Philipp Wittmann registered in Rheinhessen!). And as usual at this address, a day or more of skin contact was permitted for the dry wines; and all of the wines stayed on their fine lees until bottling, which ranged from late May though July. Together with losses during fermentation and to tartrate precipitation, these factors resulted in wines whose finished acid levels would not even raise an eyebrow on the Mosel, something one can claim for very few 2010s. Yet ironically, despite that analytical fact, these wines are recognizably of their vintage in terms of their relatively sharp corners and in the best instances productive tension, vivacity and invigoration.Importer: Domaine Select Wine Estates, New York, NY; tel. (212) 279-0799

The Ansgar Clusserath 2009 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling trocken surprisingly weighs in (at 12%) a half degree lighter than its 2008 vintage counterpart. Subtly meadow-like floral and herbal allusions on the nose are joined by ripe Persian melon and apple that migrate to a polished, subtly waxy palate with juicy exuberance, underlain by rich nut oils and cooling wet stone, and tinged by raw almond and piquant apple pit. The finish here displays clarity and focus that help it convey a sense of elegance. This is one that didn’t finish fermenting until July and had only been in bottle for a few weeks when I tasted it in September. I would plan on enjoying it over the next 4-5 years. Eva Clusserath – for more about the recent and significant evolution of whose family estate consult in particular my report in issue 187 – adjudged the quality of her 2009 grapes “super” and did not pick the last of them until mid-November. No bottling took place until June, but several wines had only recently or not even finished fermenting by then and so were bottled at the end of the summer. (Unfortunately, Eva Clusserath forgot to bring a bottle of this year’s Auslese – picked out from various parcels in the Apotheke – to our tasting in Rheinhessen chez Clusserath & Wittmann; and as one thing led to another in the course of an extremely tight schedule, I was subsequently unable to connect-up with a bottle.)Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The Ansgar Clusserath 2008 Trittenheimer Apotheke Riesling trocken mingles honeydew melon, white peach, and nut oils; offers a luscious though impressively dense and ample (at 12.5% alcohol) yet also subtly creamy palate; and finishes with tenacity of stone and salt as well as generous fruit. This should be fascinating to follow for at least 6-8 years, and offers yet further confirmation of Eva Clusserath’s (as well as Trittenheim’s) particular talent for rendering well-balanced Mosel Riesling trocken. Ansgar Clusserath’s acreage has been expanded into Dhron, Piesport, and Muhlheim at the expense of Trittenheim because, as Clusserath wistfully admits, after the communal grubbing-up, restructuring, and near-total clonal replanting of Trittenheim’s steepest slopes (a process collectively known as Flurbereinigung), she could not hope in her lifetime to make more of the sorts of Riesling that come from old, ungrafted, selection massale vines. That said, her new vineyards left her a bit in the lurch this year, inexplicably plateauing in Oechsle in November, whereas her remaining old vines in Trittenheim benefited from a late-inning surge in ripeness.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300