High-toned yet refreshing, offering up petroleum, cat pee and mineral scents before releasing gooseberry and lime flavors in the mouth. Light-bodied, with a slightly clipped finish of quince. Drink now.——W.E.(6/1/2010)—— 86

A spare, austere, lemony sort of Sauvignon.It is almost unforgiving at first, but after a few sips, you get used to the style and begin to appreciate the minerally, chalky feel. A natural with white fish, or any rich sauces that beg to be cut with a laser-edged white. Imported by Empson (USA) Ltd. ——D.T.(12/1/2005)—— 87