The Alzingers’ 2010 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Muhlpoint (arguably as befits its decomposed Urgestein soil) delivers far more mineral interest – by way of white pepper, crushed stone, and mouthwatering salinity – than the corresponding Frauenweingarten bottling. Fresh lime, cress, green bean and lentil inform a bright, firm palate and carry into a zesty, invigorating and interactive finish. This ought to remain a delight for at least 4-5 years. The Alzingers didn’t begin harvesting until the third week of October in 2010 and continued until November 18. Riesling Federspiel alone was de-acidified (as must). Leo Alzinger senior confirmed the judgment of other Wachau veterans that there was no known precedent for the combination of high acidity; sugar; and extract with genuine phenolic ripeness and next to no botrytis. (Somehow I missed out, incidentally, on tasting this year’s Liebenberg Riesling Smaragd.)Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Peach and ripe apple flavors fill this light, fruity white. Apricot and spice on the finish. Drink now.??–KM??Region: Austria / Nieder?sterreich / Wachau Select to Add

The Alzingers’ 2007 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Muhlpoint smells of under-ripe apricot, mint, green bean, and a hint of banana. Refreshing and cooling on the palate, it finishes with satisfying length and a hint of white pepper. I would plan to enjoy it over the next 2-3 years. Leo Alzinger senior’s lucid account of the 2007 vintage can be found in the general introduction to this report. After the extraordinary collection that he and his son, Leo, fielded from 2006, its successor – while different in personality – did not disappoint one bit. (I don’t know whether this was punishment for past sins, but I am sorry to have to report that your correspondent was not offered an opportunity to taste Riesling Smaragd bottlings from Liebenberg and Hohereck.)Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300