Weingut Leo Alzinger Muhlpoint Gruner Veltliner Federspiel, Wachau, Austria

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The Alzingers’ 2010 Gruner Veltliner Federspiel Muhlpoint (arguably as befits its decomposed Urgestein soil) delivers far more mineral interest – by way of white pepper, crushed stone, and mouthwatering salinity – than the corresponding Frauenweingarten bottling. Fresh lime, cress, green bean and lentil inform a bright, firm palate and carry into a zesty, invigorating and interactive finish. This ought to remain a delight for at least 4-5 years. The Alzingers didn’t begin harvesting until the third week of October in 2010 and continued until November 18. Riesling Federspiel alone was de-acidified (as must). Leo Alzinger senior confirmed the judgment of other Wachau veterans that there was no known precedent for the combination of high acidity; sugar; and extract with genuine phenolic ripeness and next to no botrytis. (Somehow I missed out, incidentally, on tasting this year’s Liebenberg Riesling Smaragd.)Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300