I admire the 2010 Chardonnay El Jabali for the way it captures the minerality, tension and energy of the year in its beautifully delineated fruit. Lemon, white flowers and crushed rocks are woven together beautifully on a persistent finish supported by clean veins of saline minerality. The Chardonnay was vinified in steel and aged in oak, with 30% malolactic fermentation, an approach that worked out quite well. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2014. Tel. (805) 688-9090; info@almarosawinery.com

Always a precise, focused wine, Alma Rosa’s ’07 El Jabali shows a procession toward a drier, more Chablis-style Chardonnay than in the past. It’s mouthwatering in acidity, with firm flavors of chalky minerals, pineapples, honeysuckle flowers and buttered toast. Now–2012. ——S.H.(12/1/2009)—— 91

Bright in acidity, and powerful in flavor, this Chard oozes ripe pineapple, green apple, mineral, honeysuckle and spicy flavors. Totally dry, it’s a little tight, and could develop some bottle complexity in a few years. Nice with Asian fare.——S.H.(9/1/2008)—— 88

Shows classic Santa Rita Hills cool-climate Chard notes of very high acidity and Meyer lemon drop flavors, but both may be too much of a good thing. So sharp, so citrusy, the palate craves something softer, creamier, and richer in fruit. Maybe it was a victim of the chilly vintage in a cool area.——S.H.(4/1/2007)—— 85