Always a precise, focused wine, Alma Rosa’s ’07 El Jabali shows a procession toward a drier, more Chablis-style Chardonnay than in the past. It’s mouthwatering in acidity, with firm flavors of chalky minerals, pineapples, honeysuckle flowers and buttered toast. Now–2012. ——S.H.(12/1/2009)—— 91