The Chablis Bel Air Reserve displays ethereal smoke, chalk dust, and gravel aromas as well as a flattering, expressive, and rich core of fruit. Layers of liquid minerals, apple compotes, and candied pears are found in this silky, medium-to-full-bodied and racy wine. Anticipated maturity: now-2004. Bravo!The wine (there are only 75 cases of this "reserve" bottling) was aged in previously used oak barrels in order to maximize lees contact (as opposed to the more traditional massive tanks) and not impart unwanted oak flavors.Importer: "Reserve" wines are Vezan/Hinkle selections for North Berkeley Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 848-8910.