I have long enjoyed the Valpolicella Classico Superiore I Lastari for the flint and polished river stone aromas that so clearly define its bouquet. The 2011 includes that characteristic. Not coincidentally, the wine is named after the “l(fā)astari,” or miners who cut huge sheets of marble directly from these hills. Sadly, many of the marble veins in Valpolicella – including the celebrated rosso veronese stone – have been since depleted. But those dusty mineral tones are certainly on display along with mature prune and freshly milled black pepper. Drink 2013-2016. Not far from the Adige River and the Via Brennero that eventually snakes its way to Northern Europe by way of the Brenner Pass, Cantine Aldegheri is an old-school winery founded in 1956 and managed today by various members of the historic Aldegheri family. The winery is nestled within the urban fabric of Sant’Ambrogio di Valpolicella, suggesting that much of the town was built after the cantina was established. Fruit is sourced from hillside plots totaling 42 hectares in Valpolicella, including estate vineyards and contracted farmers. A visit to the winery reveals a no-nonsense operation with practical applications for the considerable volume produced. Importer: Testa Wines; www.testawines.com