I can't say I have a lot of reference points for old-vine Grignolino, but I imagine the 2007 Bricco del Bosco Vigna Vecchia is about as good as it gets. Crushed flowers, spices and anise are all woven together in this soft, gracious wine. The style is as beautiful as it is eccentric. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015. I was blown away by the wines I tasted from Accornero. This under-the-radar estate in the Monferrato district deserves serious attention. Importer: Montecastelli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 414-4898

The 2006 Bricco del Bosco Vigna Vecchia is an old-vine Grignolino that will make readers reconsider what is possible with this native Piedmontese grape. It certainly did that, and more, for me. Sweet dried cherries, crushed flowers, spices and mint are some of the notes that waft from the glass in this mid-weight, silky red. The Bricco del Bosco is graced with exceptional textural elegance and sheer grace. Silky yet firm tannins frame the expressive, perfumed fruit beautifully on the textured finish. This is one of the most remarkable wines I have tasted from Piedmont in a very long time, but it is a subtle wine that requires the taster’s attention. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. This is a fabulous lineup from Accornero replete with a number of wines that deliver superb value. Importer: Montecastelli Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 414-4898