The 2009 Sylvaner is a standout in this vintage. It shows wonderful detail in freshly cut flowers, mint, peaches and pears. There is a marvelous detail and clarity in the glass. The Sylvaner is more restrained than the Kerner – and perhaps a touch less showy – but not one bit less intriguing. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. These entry-level, unoaked whites from Abbazia di Novacella in the Valle Isarco deliver plenty of bang for the buck.Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

The 2008 Sylvaner is a taut, focused white with pretty layers of perfumed, mineral-driven fruit. A long, refreshing finish rounds out this beautiful mid-weight wine. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2011. Abbazia di Novacella is a reliable source for fairly-priced wines from Alto Adige that express plenty of varietal and regional character. These entry-level wines are all aged in stainless steel.Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Cool climate aromas of passion fruit, white peach and crisp Granny Smith apple give this wine intensity and personality. It’s lean and compact in the mouth but would make an excellent companion to Thai spring rolls or Vietnamese dishes. ——M.L.(7/1/2010)—— 87

The 2007 Sylvaner reveals lovely detail and nuance in a layered expression of fruit. It is perhaps a bit more taut than the Pinot Grigio but offers greater length and complexity. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2009. Abbazia di Novacella is located in one of the most breathtakingly beautiful corners of Italy. The estate makes a wide range of wines across different levels of quality, as is the custom in these parts. The single-variety wines (in the Alsatian-style bottles) are aged in steel and made in a fresh style. The high-end Praepositus wines offer greater complexity and structure. I am happy to report that the Praepositus line, the reds in particular, are being made in a far more elegant style than has been the case in the recent past.Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

The 2006 Sylvaner is pretty and delicate in its expression of aromatic fruit and minerals, with lovely detail and purity, and a sweet, lingering finish. It is always one of the most representative wines of the lineup. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2008. Abbazia di Novacella is located in the Valle Isarco, the most northerly viticultural region in Italy. The estate is a great source for value-priced whites. The entry-level wines are aged in stainless steel and bottled with plastic corks so they are best consumed young. In particular, the wines made from indigenous varieties are well worth seeking out. These wines beautifully express the unique qualities of their respective varieties and the unique Valle Isarco terroir. The Praepositus range encompasses the top selections. Unfortunately I was only able to taste the Kerner from this group of whites. The red Praepositus wines have never been fully convincing. There are among the most heavy, overly concentrated wines being made in Alto Adige.Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200