One of the most serious wines in Reilly’s portfolio is the 2004 Grenache Old Bushvine. Its dark plum color is accompanied by a sweet, sexy bouquet of black cherry jam intermixed with licorice, roasted peanuts, and earth. Full-bodied, round, and smooth, it should be enjoyed over the next 4-5 years. Importer: Ken Onish & John Gorman, Southern Starz, Huntington Beach, CA; tel. (714) 892-3030

Reilly’s Clare Valley location tends to give its wines a little more focus than some of the wines coming out of nearby Barossa, like in this fine example of old vine Grenache. Aromas of brandied cherries sprinkled with star anise add touches of chocolate and earth on the palate. It’s full, round and generous, yet finishes firm and focused. Drink now and over the next few years.——J.C.(6/1/2007)—— 91