The 1994s were much more impressive when tasted last year. At present, they reveal similar degrees of tart acidity, although this component is not quite as pronounced. Surprisingly, the PH levels must be in the 3.4 range, which is very low by the standards of the world's greatest Merlots and Cabernets. The 1994 Cabernet Sauvignon Stags Leap Vineyard is a medium-bodied, mid-weight, sweet, ripe, smoky, vanillin, spicy (allspice?) wine with red and black fruits in the nose. On the palate, it is subtle and flavorful, with good acidity, medium body, and firm tannin. This Cabernet will benefit from several years of cellaring and last for 10-12 years. Stags Leap Wine Cellars red wines have always been among my favorites, but I was surprised by the pronounced level of tart acidity found in the 1994s and 1995s. High acidity, together with a low PH, causes a wine's texture to become compressed. The result is a wine that tastes too compact and lean. The 1994s and 1995s possess excellent to outstanding raw materials, but can these two vintages signal a change in the winemaking philosophy at Stag's Leap? I hope not.
I have been a consistent fan of previous vintages of these red wines, and I have noted in these pages the progress being made with the whites. However, it appears a different stylistic direction has been implemented. This is especially apparent in 1995 and 1994, and to a lesser extent in 1993. Lamentably, the wines come across as more narrowly focused and compact on the palate, and because of that, they give the impression of having less intensity, flesh, and richness. I hope my judgments are proven incorrect.
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