A very big Pinot, obviously chosen for its special designation due to the concentration of fruit. Almost Grenache-like in cherries, cassis, cocoa and glyceriney richness, it’s a dry, silky wine whose elaborate oak finishings add opulence. Despite the Loire-like weight, it’s a compelling Pinot that evolves as it warms in the glass, suggesting ageability. Drink now–2010.——S.H.(10/1/2007)—— 93