Tasting like a top flight Cote-Rotie, the 2010 Syrah Bien Nacido Vineyard is a thrilling example of the cool-climate Syrahs coming out of California today. A blend of 100% Syrah that spent 22-months in 30% new French oak, it delivers a stunning array of pure blackberry, black pepper, huge minerality and background gamey notes that continue to develop and gain in richness and depth over the evening. Medium to full-bodied, balanced and incredibly classy, with a firm, structured feel and laser-like precision, it will benefit from short- to mid-term cellaring and deliver the goods for over a decade. Drink now-2020. Craig Jaffurs continues to produce a bevy of brilliant Rhone blends from his winery in Santa Barbara. While his 2010s are spectacular, his 2011s are lighter in color and weight, with more upfront characters. They should pick up additional weight with some bottle time, yet most will require drinking over the coming 5-6 years. Tel. (805) 962-7003; www.jaffurswine.com

Dark plums, graphite, melted road tar, herbs and olives burst from the glass in the 2010 Syrah Bien Nacido Vineyard. An exuberant, full-bodied wine, the Bien Nacido is loaded with class and sheer personality. Deeply varietal and expressive, the 2010 captures the personality of site and vintage in spades. The 2010 spent 22 months in French oak barrels, 30% new. This is a stellar showing from Craig Jaffurs.

A fine, delicious Syrah, ripe with blackberries and plums, with intriguing notes of currants, pomegranates, pepper and cassis. Shows the purity of Bien Nacido, with balancing acidity and firm but pliant tannins. Wonderful to drink now.