This is the current release of this unusual wine. It’s barrel-fermented and aged, which gives a huge bouquet of buttered nuts, backed by ample peach and melon fruit, and a long, spice-filled, oily finish. Full-bodied and unctuous in texture, it stretches the boundaries of Pinot Gris, and is sure to be controversial. ——J.C.(7/1/2007)—— 91