The dark ruby/purple-tinged 2003 Pinot Noir Lafond Vineyard boasts plenty of substance and structure along with crisp, underlying acidity, excellent depth and richness, and copious quantities of beet root, black pepper, gamy, peppery characteristics. Enjoy it over the next 5-6 years. Lafond appears to be on the right track, producing wines with more nuances, texture, and character.Tel. (800) 225-3633

A little too big and extracted for finesse, this full-bodied wine is almost Rhonesque. It’s dark, with cherry jam and mocha flavors, and is a bit soft and hot. Lots of new French oak piles the smoky, vanilla flavors on. ——S.H.(11/1/2006)—— 86