Crafted from a blend of vineyards, Kynsi’s approach here is a riper, heavier Pinot, fuller in body than many others from the region. The flavors show the ripeness, suggesting baked red and black cherry pie filling and gooey black raspberry jam veering into cocoa-laced coffee. It’s a big wine, but very dry, with bracing acidity.——S.H.(10/1/2006)—— 88