“Shiraz is something to us that we came too late,” co-owner Michael Hill-Smith MW told me. “We were unconvinced to begin that the Adelaide Hills were warm enough for Shiraz. But then we realized that what we can produce is not only good but it’s also different.” Very deep garnet-purple in color, the 2007 Shiraz presents pronounced blackberry and black cherry fruit with underlying coffee, earth, smoked meat, loam and baking spice notes. Very crisp and equally concentrated, this medium to full-bodied Shiraz offers medium-firm fine-grained tannins and a long spicy finish. Drinking now, it should cellar to 2016+. Importer: Vintus Wines, New York, NY; tel. (914) 769 3000; www.vintuswines.com