The saturated ruby/purple-tinged 2003 Highland Estates Cabernet Sauvignon Trace Ridge, a high elevation Knight’s Valley site, possesses a sweet bouquet of graphite, black currants, earth, and high quality spicy oak. Aged 19 months in 83% new French barrels, it reveals a beautiful texture, terrific purity, and plenty of structure as well as an accessible sweetness. It should drink well for 12-15+ years. Tel. (800) 769-3649; Fax (800) 600-5985

From mountain vineyards comes this deep, dark, impressively intense Cab. Opens with a blast of new oaky smoke, char and vanilla, but once in the mouth, huge waves of flamboyant blackberry and cassis, black cherry and vanilla oak flavors unfold, with a meaty note. The wine is totally dry and balanced, and while it’s drinkable now, it should improve through 2015.——S.H.(5/1/2006)—— 94