The best thing about this wine is the acid-tannin balance. Sure, it’s ripe in blackberry and blueberry jam and cocoa flavors, but so are plenty of other red wines. But it has a cool-climate structure that makes it impressive. The Sangiovese in this blend with Cabernet Sauvignon lends a peppery, meaty note.——S.H.(12/15/2006)—— 90