The Piron 2007 Morgon Cote de Py – of which I tasted the second of two bottlings – features tart red fruits and iris perfume but displays an almost severe combination of textural firmness, notes of wood, and adamant minerality. It nonetheless manages to deliver invigoration and a certain amount of intrigue, but I am inclined to suggest one use caution in cellaring it as I wonder whether the structural elements will smooth out or integrate. Dominique Piron and his American oenologist wife Kristine-Mary have been both experimental and increasingly successful in recent vintages, and last year they significantly expanded their acreage. (Certain domaines or partnerships within their holdings are separately designated on the labels, but all bear the inscription “Dominique Piron” as well.) Availability in the U.S. has been a bit limited as yet, though, and I could not get retail prices on many of their 2007 crus – several of which I already reviewed in issue 178 – while the 2008 (a couple of lots still in malo when I visited in April) have for the most part yet to be released at the winery.Importers:Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559 1040 and Williams Corner Wine, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 566 7079
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