The 2005 Feather is a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon cuvee made by Randy Dunn of Napa Valley fame. The wine was sourced from three vineyards and aged for 22 months in 90% new French oak. The nose gives up aromas of toasty oak, scorched earth, Asian spices, black currant, and blackberry. Firm and structured on the palate, there are layers of fruit and enough tannin to evolve for another 4-6 years. The wine will be at its best from 2014 to 2030. Long Shadows is the brainchild of Alan Shoup, longtime CEO of Chateau Ste-Michelle. It is a consortium of seven different labels, each with its own star winemaker who has a 25% share in the brand. The concept is that each “is dedicated to producing a single Columbia Valley wine representing a ‘best of type’ that reflects the winemaker’s signature style.” For the second straight year, every wine in this portfolio has achieved an outstanding rating. For this, the credit goes to Alan Shoup who put it all together. Tel. (425) 467-9398; www.longshadows.com

Surprisingly tight for such a ripe and generous vintage; decanted if you plan on drinking it soon. The fruit is concentrated and pure: raspberry, cherry and cassis with a chaser of lemony acid. The acids are not quite integrated yet, and the oak seems unusually restrained. Looks set to evolve in interesting ways; purchase it in quantity, then check on it regularly to see what it’s doing.——P.G.(3/1/2009)—— 91