Odd as it may sound, it smells like coconut cream pie with a baked meringue topping, all swimming in apricot puree. It’s sweet but not achingly so, at 7.1% residual sugar, with enough acidity to balance it. It has a luscious, creamy mouthfeel. It seems young and tight despite the opulence; probably it will improve with age in a cool cellar. Best Buy.——S.H.(12/31/2000)—— 90