The winemaker swung for the fences with this one, letting the grapes get ultraripe, adding a dash of Cabernet Sauvignon, and aging it in what tastes like lots of fancy, toasty new oak. The results show in the wine’s opulence. Gooey and soft, it tastes almost sweet in baked blackberry and cherry pie filling, vanilla, milk chocolate and caramel flavors that go on and on. ——S.H.(12/31/2006)—— 89