The excellent, dark ruby/garnet-colored 1995 Chianti Classico Riserva Ducale Gold Label is still tannic, but it offers scents of animal fur, black cherries, tar, leather, and earth. Firm, structured, and muscular, but lacking charm and sweetness, it will last for 15-20 years, although I suspect the tannin will always dominate the wine's personality. Importer: Schieffelin & Somerset, New York, NY; tel. (212) 251-8337