Years ago, a dear friend set out to demonstrate to me that the Brand (which means "burn") vineyard was every bit the equal to the more renowned Rangen de Thann when it came to producing superlative Rieslings. He was right. Ten to twenty percent of its vines are 25 years old and the remaining 80-90% are well over 40. The 1997 Brand joins the long list of stunning Rieslings crafted by Humbrecht from this southerly-exposured hillside vineyard. An embracing, super-rich nose of spices, poached pears, and cherries gives way to a thickly-textured, highly-expressive, full-bodied core. This velvety bombshell is crammed with bergamots, acacia blossoms, honeyed white peaches, and clay whose flavors last throughout its mind-boggling finish.Importer: Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant, Berkeley, CA; tel (510) 524-1524.