The 1999 Shiraz Graveyard Vineyard exhibits explosive aromas of freshly ground pepper, black cherry and blackberry fruit, and loamy soil scents. While the aromatic display merits a low ninety point score, the wine is surprisingly lean and austere on the palate. Despite its purity and finesse, the finish is hard and tough with considerable austerity. It will be interesting to see if this 1999 fleshes out with aging. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2014. Importer: John Larchet, The Australian Premium Wine Collection, imported by USA Wine West, San Rafael, CAphone: (800)-485-5753

This Shiraz is medium-weight but feels lean and dry, due in large part to the toasty oak, smoke and mineral flavors that have this wine under their spell. Add to the cauldron cherry and blackberry notes on the nose and in the mouth, and a long finish, and you have the makings of a fine wine. It may be even better after five or six years in the dungeon--ahem, we mean cellar.——W.E.(11/1/2001)—— 88