Ramonet's 1998 Chevalier-Montrachet displays spicy mineral aromas. On the palate, this potentially outstanding wine has impressive power, focus, delineation, and refinement. Toasted oak, pear, and apple flavors are found throughout its intense personality. Its long finish ended on a dry note that caused me some concern. If that seemingly tannic (yes, in a Chardonnay) finish is eliminated in this wine's final stages of elevage, it will merit an outstanding score. Projected maturity: 2002-2009. Importer: Seagram Chateau & Estate Wines Company, New York, NY; tel (212) 572-7725.