The highest production comes from the 2007 Highland Estates Chardonnay Camelot Vineyard (3,700 cases), which exhibits abundant amounts of pineapple, honeysuckle, and peach along with hints of brioche and caramel. Its full-bodied, luscious finish exhibits a subtle note of oak. This Chardonnay should drink well for several years. As I wrote last year, despite a production of two million bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay, 110,000 bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Merlot, and 170,000 bottles of the Vintner’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, these are all good as well as value-priced wines. The third level in the Kendall-Jackson hierarchy is the Highland Estates cuvees, all essentially single vineyard wines from some of Jess Jackson’s finest sites. The brilliance of the Chardonnays in this portfolio needs to be addressed. Kendall-Jackson’s Highland Estates is also showcasing some very fine Pinot Noirs, generally made from the newer Dijon clones planted in cool vineyard sites. The Bordeaux varietal blends are all well-made wines, but except for the 2006 Merlot Taylor Peak (1,500 cases), production ranges from a low of 340 cases for the 2006 Trace Ridge Proprietary Red, to 870 cases of the 2006 Trace Ridge Cabernet Sauvignon.Available through Vin Lux Fine Wines, tel.(866) 462-4641; Fax (866) 853-1707; www.vinluxfinewines.com

Here’s a big, sumptuous, fat, oily Chardonnay, massive in tropical fruits, spices, minerals and smoky buttered toast. The creamy texture makes it feel especially rich. Aged in 57% new oak, it’s truly a decadent—but balanced—Chardonnay.——S.H.(7/1/2009)—— 93