A little gaseous and funky on the nose, but that’s common for inexpensive Garnacha. Once it unfolds, it deals saturated, chunky black-fruit flavors, a jammy mouthfeel and fatness on the finish. It isn’t all that structured, but it doesn’t lack for size. Maybe a touch green at its core, but given the price that’s not a major fault.——M.S.(4/1/2009)—— 85