As usual, the 2003 Roussanne, which includes 10% Viognier in the blend, possesses good acidity, which pumps up its full-blown, opulent personality. This intense effort is not for those weaned on stainless steel-fermented and aged light whites, such as those from Italy’s Veneto region. Unbridled power of honeyed fruits and citrus intermixed with rose petal, honeysuckle, and waxy notes emerge from this 2003. This cuvee often behaves bizarrely in the bottle, drinking stunningly well for several years, and then going into a funky, quasi-oxidized state, sometimes re-emerging and other times continuing to decline. Consequently, I recommend drinking them younger rather than older. The pioneer of Rhone Ranger wines in the Central Coast, Alban Vineyards has become an educational center and mecca for young winemakers who want to pursue careers with Syrah, Grenache, Roussanne, Viognier, and Mourvedre. The question I ask every time I taste through John Alban’s portfolio is “why has no one else in Edna Valley captured the extraordinary magic he has from his hillside vineyards?”Tel. (805) 546-0305
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