The estate’s 1996 Brut is a tightly wound, powerful Champagne. It reveals the early signs of honey, toastiness, and brioche that add complexity to the ripe yellow fruit. This taut, structured offering strikes a nice balance in the way ripeness is juxtaposed with lively minerality and clarity. The 1996 Brut is 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir from Cote des Blancs, Montagne de Reims, Vallee de la Marne. This is Lot: L8107BG19, disgorged on April 16th, 2008. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. This large producer based in Vertus has an excellent range of wines on the market. Oddly enough, it is the non-vintage wines that are especially strong, while the higher-end bottlings aren’t appreciably higher in quality. Importer: MHW LTD, Manhasset, NY; tel. (516) 869-9170

As it develops in bottle, this wine retains all its intense acidity. But it has now brought in a toast and yeast character that gives it even greater complexity. It is a wine that is also a Champagne, now in full flow of mineral richness, still with a long way to develop. ——R.V.(12/1/2010)—— 95