Sineann’s Champoux vineyard Merlot is barely out of barrel, tight, bright and spicy with sharply-defined flavors of red berries and red licorice. Though it passes 15% alcohol, it is neither sweet nor unctuous; the fine acidity cuts through beautifully. This will certainly benefit from a few more years of cellaring.——P.G.(5/1/2010)—— 91