Muller-Catoir Breumel in den Mauern Riesling Grosses Gewachs, Pfalz, Germany

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The Catoir 2008 Haardter Burgergarten Breumel In den Mauern Riesling Grosses Gewachs – from Muller-Catoir’s monopole clos within the Burgergarten – was picked at the end of harvest. It weighs in at 13.5% alcohol, but – like its 2007 counterpart – displays lift and elegance with the best of the vintage. A distinctly peppery pungency and saline minerality mingle on the palate with yellow plum and herbal distillates as this charts a graceful course, finishing with sappy primary fruit juiciness and a wealth of (for want of a better word) mineral complexity. This should be worth following for 12-15 years. You just had to be patient, said Martin Franzen about the 2008 harvest, but then once the grapes were ready, things went at a pretty good clip. We didn’t attempt to pick on into November. He volunteered a characterization of the wines as, incredibly playful and vibratory, which both amused and comforted me, seeing how often I had myself by then used those metaphors to describe some of the best of them. The recent evolution of this estate under Franzen’s direction – about which I have written extensively in issue 185 and elsewhere – continues on an exciting trajectory, and in retrospect I must say that with the possible exception of the two vintages of awkward transition immediately following the departure of long-time director Hans-Gunter Schwarz, at no point since I began tasting the wines of Muller-Catoir in the early ‘80s has this estate slipped from the apex of the Pfalz – indeed, of its nation’s – viticultural pecking order. Following current German fashion, Muller-Catoir now renders a Sauvignon Blanc, but I forgot to ask to taste its current installment, after having missed out on the inaugural rendition due to ignorance. With Pinot Blanc, though, Muller-Catoir is on solid ground, this grape’s virtues having even been enshrined in the Pfalz realization of Grosses Gewachs, and the estate’s history of success with it being long and illustrious.Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Subdued aromas of white peach, clove and mineral salts. Taut, spicy pit fruits and brilliant acidity make this riesling stand out. Although ethereal in style, this wine has depth, incredible length and excellent potential.