Here’s one for the cellar, no doubt about it. Shows classic, old-fashioned Howell tannins, the kind that grip early and lock the palate down throughout. But you can’t help but be struck by the immensity of fruit. Massive in sweet blackberries and black currants, liberally oaked, and with a core of minerals, it will develop over the next ten years, at the very least.——S.H.(12/15/2011)—— 94