In fidelity to a Wachau tradition that is being rapidly abandoned, Hirtzberger continues to bottle a small amount of Neuburger. His 2005 Neuburger Smaragd, harvested November 7, while aromatically fairly neutral as is typical of this grape, offers enveloping creaminess and subtle nuttiness on the palate along with inner-mouth hints of violets and litchi. I found I could return to this again and again with satisfaction, and it is undeniable that a bottle of truly well-made Neuburger will be first to disappear from a table laden with diverse victuals. Also recommended: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Steinfeder Donaugarten (not available; 85).Importer: Vin Divino, Chicago, IL; tel. (773) 334-6700