The 2007 Highland Estates Proprietary Red Trace Ridge (66% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot, and the rest Malbec) is a beauty. Dark ruby/purple with a Graves-like nose of unsmoked cigar tobacco, crushed rocks, blueberries, black currant, and cherries, the wine is full-bodied, with silky tannins, an endearing, full-bodied texture, and a long finish. It is another impressive wine that should evolve for at least 15 or more years. The lowest level of the Kendall-Jackson empire, the Vintner’s Reserve series, goes from strength to strength. For consumers hoping to maximize their dollar value, these serious wines are consistent choices. Their Chardonnay has always been good, but dramatic increases in quality have taken place in the Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon programs.Tel. (800) 769-3649; kjwines@kj.com

Doesn’t have quite the sheer ravishing power of the winery’s Trace Ridge Cabernet, but this Cab-based Bordeaux blend is nuanced and possibly more complex and Bordeaux-like. The flavors are of currants, blackberries, cherries, anise and cedar, aged in 78% new French oak. Give it until 2011 to mellow.——S.H.(6/1/2010)—— 92