More backward, concentrated and closed, yet just loaded with potential, the 2015 Ermitage Le Reverdy is—I suspect— the finest white I’ve tasted from this estate. Coming from the Beaume and le Méal lieux-dits and an even split of Marsanne and Roussanne, brought up in a mix of stainless steel and demi-muids, it has full-bodied richness, a liqueur of rocks-like aromatic profile, integrated acidity and sensational purity. It will have two decades or more of life.