The 2007 Chardonnay Horse Heaven Hills was aged in 20% stainless steel and 80% in French and American oak, 50% new. It displays an enticing perfume of toast, baking spices, pear, white peach, and tropical aromas. On the palate it reveals some complexity, a creamy texture, good balance, and a lengthy, pure finish. It can be enjoyed over the next 3-4 years. Columbia Crest, owned by Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, has long been known for the quality of its value-priced wines. The current collection will only enhance the winery’s reputation. Columbia Crest is usually thought of as a producer of value-priced wines selling for under $20. However, their upper-level, limited-production wines merit serious attention as they, too, are value-priced compared to the competition Tel. (509) 875-2061; www.columbia-crest.com

Columbia Crest winemaker Ray Einberger makes four different Chardonnays, this H3 being the newest in the lineup. It has more clean definition, more cut and precision, by far. Yes, there are light tropical fruit flavors and plenty of butter, but it’s set up nicely against a firmer, peppery base.——P.G.(5/1/2009)—— 88