Domaine Carillon produced 30,000 bottles of Puligny-Montrachet from the 11 parcels totaling 5 hectares they own (which computes to 45 hectoliters/hectare). Most of Carillon's famous neighbors had 20-30% higher yields. It reveals a lively, deep, smoke and mineral-infused nose as well as a polished, rich, and crisp medium body. The wine combines oily, fat richness (what the French call gras) with precise, pure and delineated mineral and lemon flavors. This excellent village offering may, in time, deserve an outstanding score. Carillon says it reminds him of the 1990 but significantly richer in style. Anticipated maturity: 2002-2005.
The rating, with the range of scores in parentheses, indicates the wine was tasted from cask, not bottle.
A slender, serious, and obviously dedicated man, Jacques Carillon loves the structure and ageworthiness of his family's 1996s. He compared the aging of a wine to a wave, saying the optimum time to drink it is during its crests. He feels his '96s will be in the trough of the wave between 2000 and 2001, and should hit their first crest between 2003 and 2005. I tend to agree with his assessment, and will add what this modest man did not: these are absolutely fabulous examples of elegant, mineral-packed Pulignys that will offer years of enjoyment to those lucky enough to acquire them.
Importers: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802, Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyard, Shekomeko, NY; tel (800) 910-1990, Wine Markets International, Woodbury, NY; tel (516) 364-1850 and, under the "Cuvee Nicole" label, Fran Kysela, Winchester, VA; tel (540) 722-9228.
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