Radio-Coteau Pinot Noir Dierke

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The 2010 Pinot Noir Dierke is almost Syrah-like in its dark red and black fruit. Iron, tar, incense, smoke, black pepper and cloves all appear with time in the glass, adding considerable personality. The Dierke is highly unusual and compelling, but it is likely to appeal most to readers who admire cool-climate wines. There is a lot going on in the glass. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. This lineup from Radio-Coteau and proprietor Eric Sussman was among the most thrilling I tasted this year. Radio-Coteau practices sustainable farming and hands-off winemaking, which includes native fermentations, minimal rackings and bottling without fining or filtration. What ultimately counts, though, is what is in the bottle, and more often than not, these are compelling wines that deserve serious attention. Among many things, Sussman told me Syrah did better in 2011 than in 2010. Yields were down dramatically, but the fruit that was left was exceptional. Tel. (707) 823-2578