The 2008 La Bienquerida is the winery’s flagship wine, first produced in 2007 from a single plot planted in 1906, where the Mencia vines are mixed with 5% of other grapes that are kept and fermented together, as was the norm in the old times and in the old vineyards. It shows some damp flint stone notes, like autumn forest floor. It has the power and concentration of very old vines. Here the soil is mainly slate, which gives firm tannins and a minerality, more on the graphite, vegetable coal side than the earthiness of the clay. Still hard in the mouth. They use gentle vinification here, but it still needs time to get polished. 3,000 bottles produced. Drink 2015-2022.
Losada Vinos de Finca is the name selected by a group of young wine producers from Bierzo for their winery which was started in 2005, set to recover old Mencia vineyards and create modern wines. They produce 200,000 bottles per year, mostly reds but they have just started with a rose, and every harvest they do experimental wines. I had the chance to taste a very interesting pure Alicante Bouschet, from 2011 harvested on November 20 with some brutal concentration and acidity, so they might have new labels in the future. They are focused on old-vine Mencia grown on clay soils around the village of Cacabelos, where the winery is located and looking mainly for higher altitude locations. Winemaker Amancio Fernandez had worked at Pittacum and was part of the creation of Dominio de Tares, as well as being one of the founders of Losada. Their eight hectares of vineyards are split into 22 different plots (a reality of Bierzo, where the minifundio, the name given to the system based on small plots, is widespread) used for the Altos de Losada and La Bienquerida wines, complemented by the fruit from growers that go into the other wines. Most of the wines show an austere profile, maybe some rusticity, and even if the high-end wines are offered a few years after the harvest, I feel they still require some time in bottle to balance the fruit extraction and the wood regime.
Imported by Classical Wines from Spain, Seattle, WA; www.classicalwines.com