Osborne Vintage Port, Portugal

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This house was one of only a few that declared ’95 a vintage year, but the proof is in the bottle: the decision was a good one. There’s tons of stuffing and structure here, and it’s just starting to come around to show defined plum, licorice and coffee flavors. It’s a tad hot on the finish, but that should fade if given another 10 years in the cellar. ——M.S.(11/15/2002)—— 88