Lalou Bize-Leroy is assuming a stronger position in the village of Chambolle-Musigny and she has turned out a very fine 1992 Chambolle-Musigny Les Fremieres. The wine boasts an elegant, floral, vanillin, and cherry-scented nose, medium-bodied, concentrated flavors, a supple, velvety texture, and an easy-going, graceful, complex finish. It should drink well for 12-15 years. I did not have an opportunity to taste out of bottle Lalou's Musigny and Chambertin, but several cask tastings (she does not fine or filter) revealed that the 1992 Musigny looked to be the best wine in her entire portfolio. It possessed that extra dimension of finesse as well as sensational concentration and a velvety-textured, sweet, ripe palate. The 1992 Chambertin was also terrific, but perhaps less complex and impressive when compared to the Musigny. If I get the chance to taste either or both of these wines from bottle on this side of the Atlantic, I will update readers with my opinions.
I have said it so many times that it may seem redundant, but if you missed it in my 1990 tome, Burgundy, Lalou Bize-Leroy stands virtually alone at the top of Burgundy's quality hierarchy. Because she is a perfectionist, and because she has had the courage to produce wines from low yields and bottle them naturally, without fining or filtration, she has been scorned by many Burgundy negociants, and even by the proprietors of other top domaines. Not only are they jealous, they are frightened of Bize-Leroy because they fear increasing pressure for lower yields and bio-dynamic farming. Anyone who loves great Burgundy, must realize that her wines embarrass much of what is produced in Burgundy.
For the fifth consecutive vintage since she launched her wines from the Domaine Leroy (formerly the Noellat estate), Lalou Bize-Leroy has made the highest percentage of Burgundy's greatest wines. Although not as phenomenally concentrated and extracted as her 1991s and 1990s, the 1992s are more closely aligned to her sumptuous 1989s. All of Domaine Leroy's 1992 Burgundies are shipped in temperature-controlled reefer containers and are distributed carefully by the American importer, Martine's Wines, San Rafael, CA; tel. (415) 485-1800.
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