The 2005 Ried Vogelsang – from around 25% each Welschriesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Blanc and Muskateller – displays apricot and herb, sweet corn, fresh lime, hints of tropical fruit, nut oils ... in short (or rather, long) you can pull apart the contributions of each grape variety to the blend, but they all work (or is that “play”?) well together. Time in barrel has given this a creamy texture and introduced a certain underlying firmness, but this also possesses elegance and lift, with acidity that keeps it tasting dry even though it is technically “halbtrocken.” The finish features subtle zestiness of orange and grapefruit, deep lees and nut oil richness, and a kiss of tropical fruits. And if this behaves like the 2004, it will taste even more interesting and delicious a year from now. Also available: 2005 Gruner Veltliner Hochterrassen ($15.00; 85), 2005 Riesling Steinterassen ($17.00; 84 ), 2005 Riesling Kogel Reserve ($39.00; 86+?).Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300