A blend of one-third Les Duresses and two-thirds les Breterins, the Comte Armand 2005 Auxey-Duresses 1er Cru (from vines up to 80 years old) offers vivid aromas and flavors of black currant with a pleasantly bitter hint of fruit skin, impressive palate density and a juicy fresh cassis and bitter black chocolate finish. At over 14% alcohol and with an almost freakishly low pH (neither of which is directly noticeable) this looks on paper more like a Zinfandel or Barbera, but it is a formidable and fascinating Pinot I would bet on for 3-5 years of cellaring.
Young Benjamin Leroux took over in 1999 from Pascal Marchand (who made this estate’s modern reputation), and the wines have never tasted better, nor more ageworthy. The domaine has also continued to grow – through purchase and rental – beyond their famous 13 acre core property, the Clos des Epeneaux. The wines had never been racked when I tasted them – that will only happen when they are assembled for bottling (unfiltered) – so allowance must be made for slight reduction.
Various Importers. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet; fax 011- 333-80-24-29-70.
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