There are but three barrels of the Arlaud 2005 Bonnes Mares which displays impressive aromatic and palate concentration of black and red raspberry fruit, pungent candied citrus rind and brown spices, and high-toned herbal notes, but also considerable raw tannin and obvious influence of its new barrels (which the Clos St.-Denis did not betray). The finish, while certainly long, somewhat awkwardly juxtaposes hints of caramel against tart rhubarb and mingles spices with a certain amount of heat. Time might bring this rather unruly, high-strung wine to heel. A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93.