The 2012 Bourgogne Chardonnay illuminates the potential deficiencies of the Aligote, for it is much fresher and vibrant on the nose. It comes only from vineyards in Puligny, a mixture of the family’s own vineyards and some negoce. The palate is clean and fresh with apple peel and pear, although the finish is missing a little tension and depth at the moment. This is a commendable white Burgundy.
Straight after visiting his brother Jacques, I crossed the road to visit Domaine Francois Carillon. Francois began working with his father Louis at the domaine in 1988. While Jacques only sources fruit from his own vines, Francois’s modus operandi is slightly different since, as well as his own share of inherited vines, he vinifies fruit from contracted growers. He adopts a prudent approach to oak, adamantly stating that he never uses more than 25% and he did not purchase any new wood in 2012. His was a decent set of 2012s, although in this vintage they did not quite achieve the rarefied heights of his brother’s portfolio that generally demonstrated more precision and mineralite.
Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham and through Corney & Barrow (UK)
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