Castello di Meleto's 1998 Fiore (95% Sangiovese and 5% Merlot) is a sweet, oaky, ripe, opulent effort with sweet tannin, plenty of berry fruit, and notes of coffee. It is a round, generous red to consume over the next 5-6 years. For a 1998, it possesses an atypical forward, plump personality. Importer: Vias Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 629-0200

Smooth and inviting aromas of spiced plums lay out the welcome mat, and that’s followed by a bright, edgy palate with popping cherry fruit. On the finish, more of that cherry fruit comes on strong. The only weakness is that the plate is slightly hollow in the middle; thus the wine lacks the depth required to push it to the next level. —M.S.——M.S.(12/31/2002)—— 88