The most structured of the three Syrah, the 2004 Syrah Seymour’s Vineyard (100% Syrah from mostly flint and sandstone soils) is the most youthful in the lineup, with still obvious structure, incredible purity, and a finish that just won’t quit. Giving up notions of creme de cassis, smoked meats, crushed rock-like minerality, pepper and even hints of bacon fat, it’s more focused and precise than the Lorraine, yet has full-bodied richness, awesome purity and perfect balance between its structure and fruit. Benefitting from a decant, this fabulous wine will stand toe to toe with the best in the world, and will have another 15-20 years of longevity if well stored. The two Grenache based efforts both come from the original Grenache plantings on the estate which, according to John, were put in because he didn’t know what to do with the vines and was trying to build up cuttings. Moving to the Syrahs, each comes from specific soil types and is named after a family member, with the Reva named after John’s Mother, the Lorraine after his wife, and Seymour’s after his father. All of the Syrahs spend close to 42 months in oak. Tel. (805) 546-0305; www.albanvineyards.com

There are around 280 six-packs of the fabulous, virtually perfect 2004 Syrah Seymour’s Vineyard. An inky/blue/purple color is followed by an extraordinary bouquet of bacon fat, roasted meats, creme de cassis, forest floor, and hints of black olives and pepper. Opulent and full-bodied with thrilling levels of concentration, this amazing effort is John Alban’s hommage to his father, Seymour. Give it another 2-3 years of bottle age, and drink it over the following two decades.The wines of John and Lorraine Alban are about as spectacular as one can find anywhere in the world. Alban is committed to aging his big Syrahs longer in barrel, believing it will concentrate the wines and add additional complexityTel. (805) 546-0305; Fax (805) 546-9879